Having missed the opening on the 4th July of Arts On Main I moseyed off to visit it last week-end.  Located in Main Street at the corner of Bertha St, the only giveaway from the street of this newly renovated industrial space, is the pavement upgrades. The 1911 building was originally part of the D.F. Corlett yard and offices. A building contractor and past Mayor of Johannesburg, Corlett’s name on the façade gable facing Bertha St, bears testimony to his historical presence in this area of town.  Leaving the street one enters a courtyard filled with olive and lemon trees around which are clustered various exhibition spaces, artists’ studios, fashion studios, and an eaterie called The Canteen (open for breakfast, lunch and supper) .  

Industrial buildings around a haven of grass, olives and lemon trees

 As I arrived mid afternoon on Saturday and as it is still very early days, most of the spacesWhen were closed.  But this gave me a chance to chat to Jonathan Liebman the property developer (Propertuity). Son of Nirox Foundation Developer, Benji Liebman (another blog posting needed there), Jonathan  has envisioned a space which will contribute to the regeneration of this part of town. He has assembled a formidable array of tenants. David Krut will open a second print studio and an art bookshop and Bailey African History Archives has a space.  In keeping with the avant-garde and cutting edge nature of this development, the Goodman Gallery would like to see their gallery space as a project space where younger artists can be shown. The industrial proportions will afford the relocated Seippel Gallery the space to show large installations and Goethe on Main intend to foster alternative projects and young artists who have not yet been accepted into the stables of established galleries.   But perhaps the ‘anchor tenant’ of this exciting new initiative is William Kentridge who has rented a large space for his studio. He won’t have far to walk to check out the hanging of the ‘Kentridge tapestries’ which will form the opening exhibition of Goodman’s in this space.   

Giles restaurant and pub (4 blocks from Liz at Lancaster at corner Grafton and Buckingham Aves in Craighall Park) has become the latest meeting spot to unwind on a Friday after the week’s work. Cars line the streets in all directions (from lunch time onwards) and the pub and deck are packed with patrons overflowing  onto the pavement areas. Great vibe and great wateringhole. 011  442-4056

Kim Miller, assistant professor of women’s studies and art history at Wheaton College in the States, is currently researching visual representations of women political activists in South Africa both during and after the struggle against apartheid.  When in Johannesburg on her research trips, Kim stays at Liz at Lancaster Guest House.  Wanting to track down the little known monument to Lilian Ngoyi, I accompanied Kim and en ex-Wits colleague and friend of mine, Barbara Buntman, to Soweto last week to find Lilian Ngoyi’s house in Kkungu St.  Abey Pheega, a tour guide and transport provider, took us to ‘the house with the sewing machine’.   

Nkungu St with 'elephant houses' Soweto

Lilian Ngoyi, one of the many extraordinary women who stood up against apartheid legislation, has the record of being the person who spent the longest period of time under house arrest.  First banned in 1961 at the age of 50, she remained under house arrest (the banning was lifted between 1972 and 1975),  until she died in March 1980. Although she died 2 months before her current banning order was due to expire, she would almost certainly have been rebanned under a further 5 year order. Ngoyi first made her mark as a unionist and went on to become the first woman member of the ANC national executive.  President of the Federation of South African Women and vice-president of the ANC Women’s League she was one of four women – along with Sophie Williams, Helen Joseph and Rahima Moosa – who led the march of 20, 000 women to the Union Buildings on August 9, 1956 to protest against the extension of apartheid’s pass laws to African women. The plaque outside her house, now occupied by her daughter Memory and her grandchild,  includes the following:  ‘Her friend and comrade in the ANC, Hilda Bernstein wrote:  “For 18 years this beautiful and brilliant woman spent her time in a tiny house, silenced, trying to earn money by doing sewing”.’

It is appropriate therefore that the subject of the memorial to Ngoyi is a sewing machine with the representation of an ANC Women’s League dress in the making. Constructed entirely out of painted car parts by the artist Stephen Maqashela, it is sadly in poor condition and requires some restoration work in the peeling paint work.  

Painted sculpture made of car parts depicting a sewing machine and half-made ANC shirt

This memorial formed part of the Sunday Times heritage project which aimed to develop a number of memorials to some of the remarkable people and events of  the 20th Century. For more on this project go to: www.sundaytimes.co.za/heritage
 
Even though she was getting ready to travel across to Pretoria, Memory invited us in and generously spoke to Kim about her memories of growing up in the house and as Lilian’s daughter.  Memory has altered the exterior of the ‘elephant house’ (made of concrete with a curved roof resembling an elephant’s back) and modernized and extended the interior sitting room area.

Memory Ngoyi, Kim Miller and Barbara Buntman in the living room of Memory's house

Kim Sacks, who is a potter, a teacher, a facilitator and much more besides, has developed a gallery which sells a range of exquisite artefacts. These range from historical to contemporary, and include functional objects used in a traditional context (milk gourds, head rests, stools, sticks, clothing regalia, etc.) and objects like pottery and artwork made in a Western context for commercial gain.  Packed with beautiful objects, Kim’s shop is a riot of colour and aesthetic beauty, but more than that, is Kim herself:  a warm, interesting and out-of-the mould person.

Tea, served on a traditional food platter as tray, is always on offer, and in winter there is a log fire which warms the space, In summer the back verandah provides overflow for browsers to take a break. So make sure that when you visit the Art Strip (more of that in an upcoming blog), you  pass by 153 Jan Smuts Ave.  011-477-5804

Janine Hobbs from Cotswold Gardens, an excellent 4 star guest house in Saxonwold , sent me this wonderful oh so South African story:

Janine writes:

Yesterday I took a trip to Nasrec to work out the exact kilometres from my place to Soccer City.  Well this mlungu [white person] took the wrong turn off and got so lost that I found myself on the highway to Soweto with no way of getting off!.  However, got to a traffic light and a cop car pulls up next to me so I ask for directions.  Next thing sirens blaring he takes me off the highway and on route to the stadium.    I now feel so confident that I wave goodbye to him and promptly turn left on a road to nowhere!  Next thing sirens blaring once again and there is my knight in shining armour – to cut a long story short it happened a third time and now I am so embarrassed I stop the car and we have a chat, me introducing myself as this “stupid white woman” and Prince (that’s his name) the charming cop laughing his head off at this says to me – don’t go anywhere just you stay right behind me and he takes me right to the front door of Fifa Headquarters, sirens blaring so loud they must have thought Manchester United was arriving!! 

Note: uMlungu is the froth that a wave makes in the sea when it breaks. This name was given to white people who were seen, metaphorically, to have emerged from the sea. The term has both highly negative connotations but can also be used more affectionately.

Here is a post from a friend of mine David Graham, who, through his business International Trade Projects, has a lot of overseas business clients. Accordingly, he compiled this list of party places mostly in the northern suburbs, for those international business travellers who want to work hard and play hard.

He writes:

Please note that most bars are very quiet on Sunday, Monday and Tuesday nights and generally get busier on Thursday and over the weekend.  A good place on these earlier week nights is the Circle Bar in the Rosebank Crowne Plaza Hotel or the Skye Bar on the Roof of the Holiday Inn Hotel in Sandton.  For drinks, cocktails, snacks and meals in Sandton you can always go to the News Café or the Baron (both in the same building c/r Gwenn Lane and Fredman Drive) for a noisy, fun crowd especially from Wednesday onwards.
A good source to find out about live music options is the Mail and Guardian, a weekly newspaper that you should be able to find in most convenience stores and book stores.  They have a page dedicated to live gigs taking place in Johannesburg over the next 7 days. 
Another great option for live music is the Blues Room in Village Walk Shopping Centre, c’r Rivonia Rd and Maude Street in Sandton.  They’re open from Tuesdays (comedy night) to Saturday night.  For a programme go to their website: www.bluesroom.co.za
Other places worth exploring for a drink or a meal are:
1. Melrose Arch (try the Orient Restaurant for great Asian fusion food, Moyo for a real African experience, the Meat Company for amazing meat or have a drink at the stylish Melrose Arch Hotel.
2. Rosebank (visit the African craft market during the day and try the amazing Grill House in the Firs Shopping Centre)
3. Nelson Mandela Square (linked to Sandton City Shopping Centre with lots of wonderful shopping and open air eating ). 
Here are some other bar, club and dining options:

Taboo Sandton
Saturday nights only
24 Central c/r Fredman Drive and Alice Lane, Sandton
Tel: 011-783 2200
info@taboo.co.za
www.taboo.co.za

Café Vacca Matta
Open Wednesday to Saturday nights.
Montecasino, Johannesburg (this is the big casino resort in Sandton).  They can go there for dinner, to gamble and to the Café Vacca Matta.
Open Wednesday to Saturday nights.
Tel:  011-511-0511
www.vaccamatta.co.za

Fashion TV Dining Lounge
Wednesday – Saturday – best night is a Thursday night.
Shop P1, 2nd Floor
Michelangelo Towers
Sandton
Tel: 011- 783 1864
www.ftv.co.za
Wednesday – Saturday – best night is a Thursday night.
If you email beforehand you can ask to be placed on the VIP guest list and to have access to the VIP lounge.  restaurant@ftvsandton.co.za

Latinova (latin themed night club and restaurant)
Friday and Saturday nights
160 Jan Smuts Ave
Design District
Rosebank
Tel:  011-447 1006
Due to high demand one should book in advance for Latinova.
www.latinovasa.com

Moloko Bar and Lounge
Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights
160 Jan Smuts Ave (c/r 7th Ave)
Design District
Rosebank
011-447 1082
Email:  moloko1@telkomsa.net
www.molokojoburg.com

Movida Sunninghill
Friday and Saturday nights
Rivonia and Witkoppen Roads, Sunninghill) – Approximately 10 minutes drive from Sandton
Tel:  011-234 8000
info@movida.co.za
Reservations recommended at www.movida.co.za

Tokyo Sky Night Club (a bit further out of the city)
Shop 32 Fourways View Shopping Centre
c/r Witkoppen and Cedar Roads
Fourways
Restaurant: Tuesdays to Sundays – Night Club:  Wednesday, Fridays and Saturdays
011-465 0704
www/tokyosky.co.za

A visiting academic who is staying here at Liz at Lancaster referred this morning to Boekehuis as ‘Johannesburg’s Best Kept Secret’.  What a shame not to spread the word about such a gem of  a store. The title of Lucille Davie’s article (www.joburg.org. za  7 June 2006):  ‘Boekehuis one of the world’s 50 unique bookshops’, says it all.  The International Booksellers Federation chose Boekehuis from 734 submissions, to feature on its 2 year calendar of the world’s 50 unique bookshops (2007 and 2008). Davie writes: ‘Opened in 2000, the shop is located in a 100-year-old house once belonging to the daughter of lawyer and anti-apartheid campaigner Braam Fischer. It retains the cosiness of the old house, with an adjoining coffee shop set in a delightful garden. The house still has its gleaming Oregon floors, pressed-steel ceilings and fireplaces.’    In addition to its wide range of Afrikaans books, there are books for the discerning reader which cover topics from cultural studies to history to literature, and much more besides. There is a section of children’s books; and story telling and reading sessions are held to encourage reading among young people. Boekehuis is also a great public space.  People can meet over a glass of wine and a snack to exchange ideas when they attend the book launches, author readings and discussion groups which all form part of Boekehuis’ literary programme.  So go along to Boekehuis at corner Lothbury and Fawley Streets Auckland Park or contact them on 011 482 3609 or boekehuis@boekehuis.co.za to be put onto their mailing list.

Due to open in September, construction of the new Southern Sun hotel above the Hyde Park shopping centre is moving ahead fast. A joint venture with Hyprop Investments who own Hyde Park shopping centre, the development is said to have a budget of R180 million. A 60 seater restaurant, whiskey bar, function room, gym and swimming pool will provide luxury facilities for the 132 rooms. Built on three floors on the crest of the hill, the hotel will have stunning views to the north.  Craighall Park is adjacent to Hyde Park on the west of jan Smuts Ave. Liz at Lancaster Guest House is 2 km from the new Hyde Park hotel.

Southern Sun, one of South Africa’s leading hotel chains and one which has a very high presence in Sandton, has a number of different hotel categories in its stable.  Ranging from the budget category: Formula One and Stayeasy (none in Sandton) to the economy category of the Garden Courts to the 4 star and luxury 5 star Deluxe hotels. Rates range from extremely reasonable to high end prices. Although Southern Sun offers excellent rates during the quiet winter months on the ‘Sunbreaks’ package, these special offers depend very much on availability. A search for a single supplement with breakfast in the Southern Sun Sandton stable for the arbitrary date of 21st July yielded the following rates:  Garden Court Sandton (Katherine St) R902; Garden Court Sandton City R1196; Grayston Southern Sun R1216; Katherine St Southern Sun R1259; Sandton Sun R1805; Sandton Towers Intercontinental R2280. The Hyde Park Southern Sun, as a 4 star hotel will fall into a  category equivalent to Katherine St and Grayston Southern Suns.

At last a new restaurant has opened at the end of  our block – a five minute walk from the Guest House.  After the closing of  Tre Gatti (see blog Neighbourhood Restaurants of 7 June),  Ami 011 447 4648 opened on 11th July.  Offering a small sophisticated menu,  4 starters vary in price from R40 to R70 and 4 main courses range from R80 to R110. There are such mouth watering dishes as roasted tomato and goats cheese with olive tapenade in short crust pastry and duck breast roasted in plum sauce and mint. And how  does this sound to end the meal: honey and lavender creme brulee with pecan nut short bread. There is also a lunch menu offering lighter meals. Decor is crisp and clean in contrasting black and white.  The outside area provides a nice place to mellow out in the winter sun and read the papers and to relax over a glass of chilled white wine on a warm summer’s evening. Inside the clean lines are continued into the cocktail bar with its contemporary look and feel.

Also your blog is terrific! Thank you for pointing me to it; I’m learning a lot in advance of our trip.